The final leg of our trip was Poland. Adding it on to our trip added little cost compared to what it would cost to fly from US to Poland. It is with the EU so the flight from Ireland to Poland was considered a domestic flight. Our flights cost about $1100 US. We flew into Glasgow, Scotland. A few weeks later we had a flight from Dublin, Ireland to Warsaw, Poland, and then from Warsaw back to the states.

Our purpose in going to Poland was to spend time with friends. Sightseeing was on the list but not the priority. It was a great way to end the trip. We stayed with Laverne, Lolita and family. Lita grew up in the same church that I did until I was 10. I’m a few years older so though I haven’t seen her much in the last 30 years, it only took 2 minutes to see she is a “kindred spirit” as Anne of GG would say.

They welcomed us with open arms and we made ourselves at home. 🙂 Totally!

Carolyn stayed across the road with Anita. I’ve kinda “known” Anita through the blogging world so it was delightful to actually meet her in real life. The other teachers, Matt (a cousin – 3rd?) and Maria made us feel welcome as well.

I guess I only got a picture of their whole family when they were singing. They sing beautifully! Their daughters did a “What a Wonderful World” puppet song a la Louis Armstrong and we four travelers did a skit based on our travel experiences, greatly exaggerating everything. 🙂

We made supper for them one evening, a Mexican style meal, with Fiesta Lime Chicken, rice, re-fried beans, etc. I was grateful for Anita’s help at the grocery store. Otherwise, there’s no telling what we might’ve ended up eating. After all, the picture on the box doesn’t guarantee that’s what’s inside. It may be an ingredient for the final product. I can’t remember who this story happened to, but we know of someone who emigrated to the US years ago. They were delighted to find a can of fried chicken on the shelf. Imagine their shock and disappointment when they found shortening instead!!

Another evening we singles were together and solved the world’s problems. Imagine that!!

Backing up a little … when we flew into Warsaw, Lita braved the city driving and came to pick us up. She did well and we only had to circle the block maybe once?

We started with lunch at the Gessler Restaurant. It was a unique experience!!! I wish I had pictures of the open kitchen. Here are  few pictures.

Most of us ordered the special, which gave a bigger variety of Polish flavors. We started with a horseradish soup ^that was very tasty!!

The restaurant itself is unique because it had been an apartment building and they opened some of it up and turned it into a restaurant.

In looking for information on it online, I’m not seeing much. In fact, on trip advisor, from several different contributors, I’m seeing that it either moved or closed. Bummer.

We went to Piłsudski Square, the largest city square and a good place to stretch the legs while experiencing Warsaw.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

And beautiful gardens …

One of the days, Anita, Carolyn, Ruby & I took the train back into Warsaw for a closer look.

I joked that we ate our way around Warsaw. It was kind of true!!

We started out at E. Wedel, a place with chocolate, chocolate and chocolate.

We discussed many issues including singleness (is that a word?). And I we daintily sipped chocolate drinks that were exquisite. Think candy bar/hot chocolate drink in an elegant setting. There were many different combinations and this, I believe, was a chocolate caramel variety.

We ate a Polish meal later in a touristy area.

Pierogies!!!

We stopped for dessert late afternoon in a coffee shop. I totally forgot to get pictures there.

It was  a bit of a rainy day, which was good because there were fewer tourists around. It was also bad because we had to dodge showers and outside vendors were closed down.

The flowers were gorgeous!

The architecture beautiful!

Apartment buildings nestled in a corner of the city.

The presidential palace:

Poland was gearing up to host the Europe Cup the week after we were there, so there was some activity and excitement in the city. I believe it was the first time Poland has ever hosted it which made it an even bigger deal for them!

At some point we trained past the stadium.

More of Poland coming soon!

The last part of our trip we spent in Dublin, Ireland with Gabriel & Jenn and their adorable babies. I didn’t know Jenn very well before, even though she grew up in the south, only 4 hours from where I live. And I hadn’t met Gabriel before this trip. They opened their home up and just made us feel so welcome! And we hadn’t had little children around much so it was treat to spend time with them too!

[Carolyn reading them stories]

I had been emailing Jenn before the trip to get some ideas of what were some highlights to see and do in Ireland. Several suggestions she had included Dingle Peninsula and the  Bunratty Castle.

There was a beautiful walled park near their apartment, and we spent a bit of time there.

We made time to take their family pictures.

Too bad you can’t see Carolyn who was doing some very funny things to keep their attention on me and the camera! 🙂

Isn’t she just a doll! 🙂

We enjoyed a meal on their back veranda. Another evening we played a couple of (verbally energetic) games of Clue. 🙂

A beautiful rose on her veranda.

One afternoon Jenn joined us on a trip into the city. We caught a bus and went first to Trinity College.

This is also where the Book of Kells is located. We all opted to not tour it. I kind of wish now I would’ve. Like I said earlier, after you tour so many places in such a short amount of time, you get to the place where you can’t take in much more. And you have to decide where you want to spend your money because most places cost to get in.

Jenn took us to some fun shopping spots. Unfortunately I had long since quit taking notes of things so some details are a little sketchy by now. I can’t remember the really cool store we shopped in that also had a bakery/restaurant in the lower level. Jenn, if you read this, can you help me out?? 🙂 We also walked to a cathedral but again, opted not to tour it. And I forget which one. I did get a picture of a celtic cross, though. 🙂 You know when you have this visual that you want to capture or create?

Well, I had one involving a Celtic cross and a sunset.

Yup. You’re right. It didn’t happen.

This was not sunset, and I had to shoot through a wrought iron fence to get this one, thus leaving me one option in the use of available light. Yeah, it could be worse. Like glaring mid-day light.

They also took us to their favorite place on the edge of the city, high up a hill and in the country, kind of, overlooking the city.

Yeah, no. I either didn’t get any pictures of that either or I accidentally deleted them.

In all of our penny-pinching travel, we had not made time in Ireland for pub food. We’d heard lots about it, and about halfway into our trip I said we mustn’t forget to do that. I would be most disappointed if we missed the chance. Gabriel and Jenn took us to one near their place that they had a carvery lunch. This is kind of a buffet. You choose a meat and whatever sides you want to go with it.

That was delicious even though you might not think so looking at this picture!  There is roast beef underneath. The mashed potatoes which they call something different (Irish mash??) are at 1 o’clock. The orange strips are rutabagas (I think).  There’s stuffing from 9 to 11 o’clock, and cauliflower at 7 o’clock and above 6 o’clock.  The carrots are obvious. I don’t think I need to tell you their time. Have I thoroughly confused you yet? O yeah. All times noted on plate are in Dublin time. har har

Gabriel had helped Lois return our rental car to the agency so when it was time to leave, it was a trip to the airport to leave for….

Poland. 

Coming up next.

After leaving Kinsale, we had a couple of hour drive, some of it winding along the coastline. Or did we purposely choose the coastline? Probably both. It’s really here nor there but it was a lovely drive. I think we stopped in Cobh to see if the famine ship was there as it had been the when Carolyn was in Ireland before. No, it wasn’t there but at its home in New Ross. We hoped it would still be close enough to see. More on that later. 🙂 Cobh (pronounced Cove) and previously being named Queenstown, was the final port of call for the Titanic. At the visitor’s center there is a Titanic museum of sorts.

Coastal beauty of Ireland

“Oreo” cows

We drove on into the area where the Mennonites live, along the southern coast of Ireland. We arrived at the Yoder residence and their daughter showed us our lodgings in their guest quarters. They wanted to show us the cliff walk that they enjoy and boy howdy, was it pretty! It had been another sunny day and the evening light was beautiful!!

There were so many things I didn’t get pictures of … our homey lodgings, Hannah’s pottery, lunch with the single ladies in their beautiful home, the gas station/bakery with a Choice Books room that made The Best scones!!

Another highlight was a visit to the site of the wilderness camp. It is patterned after wilderness camp schools in the US. When were there, no one was staying there yet but they were doing day trips. Carolyn had worked with Wes in Pennsylvania at a camp. Wes took us back to visit the site.

We got details for the Dunbrody replica ship, one of the many which transported people to the US & Canada during the potato famine in the mid-1800s. This was very interesting, especially as we have an ancestor who came over on such a ship. Like many families,  our great++++grandmother lost her family on the way over due to sickness in the barely livable conditions on the boats. These boats were also called coffin ships because so many people died en route.

According to the sign below, potatoes were the staple of the farmer’s diet. A working man ate between 10 and 14 lbs. of potatoes every day. Can you imagine?

These ladies represent the “first class” passenger and I use that term loosely when it comes to their lodgings, and a farmer’s wife.

See if you can understand their rich Irish accents.

httpv://youtu.be/ldA0Zk46I_A

httpv://youtu.be/xvhIwGBLXso

If you ever have a chance to tour it, we highly recommend it!

After a long weekend there, we headed toward Dublin. On the way we toured Cahir Castle, one of the best preserved castles.

 

Cannonball lodged in thick walls:

We also drove past the Rock of Cashel, where St. Patrick lived and ministered. We had thought this would be a priority to tour, but by this point we had seen so many castles and experienced so much history, that we just stopped for pictures and then kept moving.

An Abbey a short distance away:

On to Dublin ….

The next day we had  a big day trip ahead of us! Lots of exciting things to see and do and experience.

Our first big thing was the Cliffs of Moher. We had a several hour drive, including a short ride on a ferry. A few things we saw on the way to the Cliffs:

In this area they were cutting peat for burning.

It dries in the sun before it’s ready to burn.

Examples of  newer Irish Architecture

Can you guess what this is?

It is a golf course, or at least part of one.

Not the immaculately manicured ones that we see here, eh? It is probably closer to the golf courses at the birthplace of golf in Scotland than what we’re used to seeing.

The Cliffs of Moher

It is very hard to capture the height and magnificence of these cliffs!

I’m not sure how tall the tower at top of the cliff is but from the top of the tower to the surface of  the water is around 700 feet.

Puffins live and nest in the cliffs but we were not able to see any.

The Cliffs have recently been fenced off as there have been deaths from people getting to close to the edge. The people on the cliff below are beyond the point allowed. It was rather odd. There were Do Not Walk Beyond This Point signs posted but many people walked around them and the employees didn’t seem to respond to it.

There were gazillions of tourists out this day, as it was a beautiful, sunny day! There were a few musicians here and there, giving us a taste of Irish music.

We went to a beach at a nearby town to eat lunch and watch the locals learn to surf and otherwise just really enjoy a beautiful and completely sunny day in Ireland, which is somewhat unusual and treasured.

Our next big event for the day, was touring and then dining at Bunratty Castle.

Those four corner towers each contain spiral staircases and you totally go in circles getting top to bottom!!

The Great Room

Servants’ Quarters

Guest Quarters – The Bedroom

Guest Quarters – Dining/Breakfast Room

There was a small working village surrounding the castle.

Here is a stack of dried peat for burning.

This cottage smelled odd. We figured out it was the peat smoke. Yikes!

In the evening we took in the banquet, which was fun!!

We all gathered in the Great Room to enjoy cube bread dipped in salt.

We were also served honey mead, a ancient-recipe “wine”, and from what I remember, it was more likely what the working class drank, than the upper class.

They also had a harpist and violinist playing.

As we were leaving later in the evening we met the violinist on the path. We chatted a bit and told him how much we loved his music. He really was a “brilliant” musician. He asked where we were from. We told him USA and he said, “I lived there for a while.” After a few more questions he mentioned that he had been to Juilliard.

The supper was delicious! We had a root soup served in a bowl. The only utensil we had was a steak knife (dagger they call it) to use. We had BBQ ribs, chicken drumsticks, pork filets, rutabagas (I think) and a few other veggies.

It was hard to get good pictures since it was fairly dark and I wanted too keep from getting too flashy.

Throughout the meal the wait staff sang Irish folks songs.

Here’s a sampling of the singing:

httpv://youtu.be/M8YtAVCd_Ao

It was a bit expensive but it was worth the splurge. 🙂 After all, we saved lots of $ by cooking at our own house.

After spending 4 days in western Ireland, it was time to move on.

We stopped in the small coastal town of Kinsale. The ship Lusitania was sunk off the coast here in 1915 by a German submarine. It sank so quickly that more than half  of the 1,959 passengers died. One of my favorite historical fiction novelists is MaryAnn Minatra. In her one trilogy she uses this incident as part of her novel, The Heirloom. Her character is rescued by a local fisherman and barely survives.

We took time to visit the small museum in Kinsale. It was interesting to see artifacts from that terrible tragedy.

Something else we saw in the museum.

We were headed to Dunmore East, where we stayed at the Yoder’s guest house.

But that portion will have to be saved for next post. 🙂

We took the ferry from Holyhead, Wales into Dublin, Ireland. It was a very large ferry and we had a relaxing couple of hours crossing the Irish Sea. After going through customs, we caught a taxi to central Dublin to our the car rental place. They were sure we needed a mini-van instead of the car we had rented, so we agreed to the free upgrade and were glad we did. Now mind you, their mini-van is still smaller than ours. My sister had taken care of all the car rental stuff and it was considerably higher than then the English rental. And they nearly had 3 conniptions that she chose to reject the added insurance. But as a part of the rental agreement, they charge a large sum, say a couple grand, to a renter’s credit card and then refund it when the car is returned safe and sound. There’s no way you can reject that.

But with my brave sister behind the wheel, and me in the navigation seat once more, we headed through the city and out to the southwestern part of Ireland. We had a cottage rented, with 3 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. It felt rather luxurious to have my own bedroom and bathroom!!

 

View from the front of the house:

And in the evenings we had beautiful sunsets (when it wasn’t raining)

Our house was between the Dingle Peninsula and near the beginning of the Ring of Kerry close to the town of Killorglin.

As we did with the other houses we rented, we cooked as many meals as possible. I was looking for bread in a grocery store and found a package of farls. Basically it’s a cross between a potato cake and bread, although I didn’t know that at the time. We put them in the toaster to heat them up and they went splendidly with soup. Here is a recipe I have pinned to try sometime: Potato Farls.

The second day we were in Ireland, we headed out to town of Dingle. Ring of Dingle is the loop drive out near the tip of Dingle Peninsula. Isn’t that the coolest name ever!?!

On our way out to Dingle, we found a famous beach. Some movie was filmed there and that seems to be a big deal.

Because the coast was very rocky, it seems like one of the few flat sand beaches in this area.

Soon after, it clouded over and kind of misted off and on for the remainder of our trip.

This is one of the many stone buildings around the area that are centuries old. Many have a religious history.

The Dingle Peninsula is one of the areas of Ireland that was seriously affected by the Great Irish Potato Famine. In this area, it has not been farmed since people left in the 1860s.  Can you see the ridges below? Those are still there from that era. I’ll have more on the famine later.

We also toured a group of buildings that is also still unoccupied from the famine.

Pictured below is a scene that is highly photographed. A. It’s beautiful. B. It actually has a pull-over so you can safely take pictures of it. As you can see from the road above ^ there is not an over abundance of road space.

Just passed this pull-over, in the cluster of houses on the right, was a cute little house where they advertised pie and tea. So we stopped and had a delightful little break. Her pie was more like a flat tart.

Off the coast there is a grouping islands. Among them is the Sleeping Giant. This is also the furthermost west point of Ireland and Europe.

This is an old church called the Gallarus Oratory. No one knows for sure when it was built but is it most likely at least 800 years old, and some people put it closer to 1500 years old. The walls are several feet thick. The stones stay in place because they are so well placed, and not because mortar was used.

My sister was the brave driver again! We didn’t have time to drive on the northern loop so we took a shortcut to head back to our house.

The next day we drove through Killarney to the Killarney National Park. Our destination was Muckross House.

This is a beautiful estate that was occupied one of the many ruling English landholders back in it’s day. Keep in mind that while the peasants living of off of potatoes were barely suriving, some of their landlords lived like this. I’m sure there were many landlords that didn’t live near so grand but that does take some of the charm out of it. . Especially when millions died from lack of food, while there was much food being exported. I was going to wait to say more about this until later. 🙂 Construction of this house was completed in 1843, just 2 years before the famine.

The gardens were quite lovely. You can see how large the rhododendron bushes are below.

We took a tour of the house. As usual, no photos allowed. It was grand. And there were working farms. You could also walk or pay for a horse and cart  (called a jaunting car) ride to the nearby Torc waterfall. However, we also wanted to visit a sheep farm a bit south of there. We were told that you don’t want to head clockwise on the Ring of Kerry. The road has very narrow places, and all of the tour buses are traveling counterclockwise. So by mid-afternoon, we would’ve caught them coming back. So we boogied out, and were we ever glad we did. We did meet 1 or 2 buses and there were not kidding about the roads. Some places had a rock wall on the left literally inches from the road. The buses are bigger henceforth they owned the road.

We finally found the sheep farm in the middle of a very rocky terrain. Far from any town. The owner told us they only have phone satellite service.

Each dog is taught a different signal. That way he can be calling out to various dogs at the same time and they won’t be confused. They listen only for the signals they were taught. These dogs were ready to move 100% of the time. The second he gave a command they took off. This one is “guarding” the sheep that are already corralled. The owner said he wouldn’t leave them there alone for fear the dogs would eventually tear into the sheep. They are protecting the sheep from escaping, not keeping them from harm.

We came in on the shearing while a tour group was there. The tour leader cracked us up. He wasn’t Irish, but German (I think). He seemed to think we had some kind of connection. It was inappropriate, just like maybe he’s done tours for Mennonites before. 🙂

Sheared vs. Unsheared

Their fleece is worth very little, due to it being messy form living in rough terrain. The meat is of more value than anything. This farm has 3,000 sheep but tourism is their subsistence. The paperwork involved is crazy. Three sets of paperwork for every sheep. If one dies or is killed, paperwork has to be filed on it. Imagine that X3.

They also had sheep cheese for sale.

It was definitely worth seeing.  You can see their reviews on Trip Advisor.

On our way back we didn’t encounter any buses, but we did come up on school group that was biking along this road. FRUSTRATING! The road is so very narrow and curvy that it was very difficult to pass them. There is no shoulder along the road for them to get off to let us pass. At one point, one of the girls tipped over into a ditch but her co-riders couldn’t even stop to help. That was definitely the most stressful driving of the whole vacation.